Local Tour Permit
For trips under 500 miles.
Form must be submitted at least
2 weeks in advance to the Program
Center. A list of participants must
be included. For use of council
camps, request must be made in
writing at least 2 weeks in advance
to the Program Center. Please
include the following on your
request: time of arrival, time of
departure, contact information for
the leader & assistant leader, camp
requested, unit number, district,
type of event, and the number of
boys & adults attending. It is not
necessary to submit a Local Tour
Permit if attending a district or
council function/activity.
National Tour Permit
For trips over 500 miles (local
council camp excepted) and trips
crossing national boundaries.
Form must be submitted at least
1 month in advance to the Program
Center. A list of participants must
be included.
Insurance
All vehicles MUST be covered by a
public liability and property damage
liability insurance policy. The
amount of this coverage must meet or
exceed the insurance requirement of
the state in which the vehicle is
licensed. (It is recommended,
however, that coverage limits are at
least $50,000/$100,000/$50,000). Any
vehicle carrying ten (10) or more
passengers is required to have
limits of
$100,000/$300,000/$100,000.
In the case of rented vehicles,
the requirement of coverage limits
can be met by combining the limits
of personal coverage carried by the
driver with coverage carried by the
owner of the rented vehicle. All
vehicles used in travel outside the
United States must carry a public
liability and property liability
insurance policy that complies with
or exceeds the requirements of that
country.
__Water bottle
__Emergency blanket
__Two 33-gallon trash bags
__Compass
__Snack Food
__Whistle
__Small Signal Mirror
__Matches
__Stick candle
__Water purification tablets
__Pencil & small pad of paper
__Pocket knife (Totin Chip reqd)
__Mini first aide kit
__50-100 ft. rope
__Small flashlight
__5-minute phone card
__Rain gear (full suit)
Back Pack:
__Frame pack w/hip belt
__Canteen
__Hiking Boots
__Socks (2 pair/day)
__Pants (min 2 pair)
__Shorts/swim trunks
__Scout shirt (Types A and B)
__Shirts (minimum 1/day)
__Flannel or Sweatshirt (min 2)
__Underwear (min one pair/day)
__Long johns
__Belt
__Wind suit
__Gaiters (opt)
__Sneakers
__Hat
__Jacket
__Sleeping bag
__Sleeping pad
__Ground cloth
__First Aid kit
__Work Gloves
__Flashlight (spare bulb/batteries)
__Mess Kit w/Utensils & cup
__Small Brillo pad (in baggie)
Warm Weather Camping List
Tent (Troop Supplied)
Fifteen Degree Sleeping Bag
Sleeping Pad (not inflatable vinyl)
Pillow (recommended)
Flashlight and Extra Batteries
Water Bottle or Canteen
One Gallon of Water (as required)
Compass
Pocket Knife or Multi-Purpose Knife
Whistle
Mess Kit (plate, bowl, cup, fork,
knife and spoon)
Waterproof Rain Gear
Sweater or Sweatshirt
Two pair of pants or shorts (one is
extra)
Activity Shirt (Class “B”)
Three shirts (one is extra)
Three pairs of underwear (one is
extra)
Three pairs of socks (one is extra)
Hiking Boots
Tennis or other closed-toe shoe
Troop Hat
Swimming Trunks
Towels (drying and wash cloth)
Soap
Toothbrush and Toothpaste
Deodorant
Comb or Brush
First Aid Kit
Medicines (as required)
Insect Repellent (suggested)
Sun Screen Lotion (suggested)
Tote’n’Chip Card
Fire’m’Chit Card
Sunglasses (optional)
Day or Fanny Pack (as required)
Camera (optional)
Watch (optional)
Folding Chair (optional)
Scout Handbook (required)
Merit Badge Books (as required)
Merit Badge Cards (as required)
Notebook (as required)
Pen and/or Pencil (as required)
This list assumes a single night
of camping. For a second night, add
additional clothing as required.
Suggestions:
The key to staying cool is very
similar to the guide to staying
warm, and that is to layer your
clothing. Wear enough to keep you
comfortable so that you don’t
overheating and sweating. Remove
layers of clothing when you start
getting too hot.
Wear a hat and avoid dark colours
when you are travelling through
areas of direct sunlight. Put on an
appropriate amount of sunscreen.
Drink plenty of fluids to prevent
dehydration, staying away from
carbonated drinks.
Cold Weather Camping List
Tent (Troop Supplied)
Zero Degree Sleeping Bag
Sleeping Pad (not inflatable vinyl)
Pillow (recommended)
Flashlight and Extra Batteries
Water Bottle or Canteen
One Gallon of Water (as required)
Compass
Pocket Knife or Multi-Purpose Knife
Whistle
Mess Kit (plate, bowl, cup, fork,
knife and spoon)
Cold Weather Jacket with hood
Waterproof Rain Gear
Thermals
Sweater or Sweatshirt
Two pair of pants (one is extra)
One pair of water resistant pants
Activity Shirt (Class “B”)
Three shirts (one is extra)
Three pairs of underwear (one is
extra)
Three pairs of socks (one is extra)
Hiking Boots
Tennis or other closed-toe shoe
Snow or Pac shoes (as required)
Troop Hat
Ski Mask
Gloves or Mittens
Scarf (recommended)
Towels (drying and wash cloth)
Soap
Toothbrush and Toothpaste
Deodorant
Comb or Brush
First Aid Kit
Medicines (as required)
Insect Repellent (suggested)
Sun Screen Lotion (suggested)
Hand / Foot Warmers (suggested)
Tote’n’Chip Card
Fire’m’Chit Card
Sunglasses (optional)
Day or Fanny Pack (as required)
Camera (optional)
Watch (optional)
Folding Chair (optional)
Scout Handbook (required)
Merit Badge Books / Cards (as
required)
Notebook and Pen and/or Pencil (as
required)
This list assumes a single night
of camping. For a second night, add
additional clothing as required.
The key to keeping warm is to
follow the C. (Clean) O. (Overheat)
L. (Layering) D. (Dry) guidelines
and to drink plenty of fluids. If
your clothes are clean and dry, they
will breathe better and you’ll stay
warmer. If you overheat, your
clothes will be wet and you will
easily chill.
Layering your clothes will keep
your clean, warm and dry and will
prevent overheating. If you start to
feel warm, simply remove a layer of
clothing. If you start to feel cold,
add another layer of clothing.
An example of proper layering
starting from the layer closest to
your skin on the upper half of your
body would be thermal top, t-shirt,
shirt, sweater and jacket. For your
head, a scarf and a ski hat.
For the lower half of your body
start with thermals, underwear,
pants and water and/or wind
resistant pants. For your feet,
thin, breathable socks, wool socks,
boot and pac/snow boots.
General Information
These ideas about buying Boy
Scout Camping gear were compiled
using the resources and experiences
of over a dozen parents, Scout
leaders, and camping experts. It
represents over 100 years of
combined camping experience, and
exhaustive research into the camping
arts in an effort to help you, the
parent of a Boy Scout, to resist the
"Mommy, I've just got to have one
too" syndrome and still provide your
son with adequate, safe, and
affordable camping gear. It is not
the end-all be-all of gear
purchasing, but is intended to be a
guide that you can use to help avoid
emptying the college fund while your
son is still in the 6th or 7th
grade.
Let's face it, just look through
any equipment catalog, or visit a
local camping equipment supplier,
you will no doubt experience sticker
shock in a way you never thought
possible. The array of things that
people buy for camping is
bewildering, and even if your family
camps together often, making the
purchases necessary for a Scout to
go out on his own can be difficult.
Hopefully, these few paragraphs will
help.
Our troop is an outdoor troop. We
meet year-round, and unless road
conditions or other unforeseeable
circumstances occur, we go camping
monthly. Neither rain, sleet, nor
snow will keep us at home, and our
Scouts need to be prepared for
anything. (For more information
specifically on winter camping, go
to the article on Winter Warmth
after you read this.) Most of a
Scout's preparedness for both
expected and unexpected happenings
is in his head, but he needs the
proper equipment to ensure his
safety and comfort. If you have
questions about equipment after
reading this pamphlet, ask any of
the troop's Scoutmaster, Assistant
Scoutmasters, or Committee Members.
We'll be glad to answer any
questions, or make specific
recommendations on needs, brands, or
suppliers if you wish.
A Few General Notes
1) It is not necessary to start out
with a complete set of gear. Scouts
can share, borrow (check with older
Scouts who have upgraded their gear
to find good used equipment), or
make their own as they learn what
they need and like.
2) There is always a tradeoff
between cost and quality. Top of the
line expedition equipment is not
needed to "keep up with the other
boys" in the troop. Famous brand
names often cost much more than the
equivalent gear purchased from a
dealer who has his equipment made
for him. Just because it says "North
FaceTM" and costs $250, does not
mean that the gear is any better
than "SlumberjackTM" priced at $125
(and I'm not picking on NF
specifically, they make superb
quality equipment). However, poorly
made gear will not stand up to
rugged use, and it can be
uncomfortable, unusable, or even
dangerous. Good equipment does not
have to cost an arm and a leg, and
hopefully, this list will help avoid
a major financial crisis in your
household.
3) Beware of "stylish" or
"trendy" gear. Some things that are
popular around school are very
specialized, such as short ski
jackets, etc. Camping gear needs to
be versatile, and a pair of boots
designed for mucking about in a ski
chalet after a tough day on the
slopes will be useless mucking about
on a mountaintop in a hail storm.
4) A boy should learn how to use
his gear before he gets out into the
woods. For example, he should have a
new pack adjusted properly, know how
to pitch his tent, and light and
cook on a backpacking stove (see the
specific section on stoves for more
info). The troop will help with this
training wherever possible, but
because of limited time, we can't
learn everything about every
conceivable brand of equipment that
a boy can show up with. It is very
discouraging for a boy to go camping
with a new item and have it fail to
work as he expected it to because no
one took the time to help him learn
how to use it before it became
something he needed to live. This
problem is compounded if none of the
trip leaders have ever seen it
either.
5) Remember, if you buy a decent
piece of equipment and little Johnny
decides that camping is just not for
him and he drops out of Scouting, it
can be sold for just about what you
put into it. If down the road a few
years, he needs to upgrade a pack,
or stove, good used gear will be
snapped up by parents in the
position you're in now.
6) A list of local dealers and
mail order outlets is attached.
There are many more places to buy
equipment, and no one dealer has all
the lowest prices. Shop around.
Compare. Also be aware that Official
Boy Scout equipment, with the
exception of uniforms, is not always
a good value for the money. They
must compromise between price,
profits, safety, convenience, and
usability. In many instances, other
equipment is available that is a
much better buy than what the Boy
Scouts of America calls "Official".
Some local suppliers offer Scout
discounts upon presentation of a
current BSA registration card. Ask
about it, and if the clerk doesn't
know, ask the manager.
7) Uniforms must be "Official Boy
Scout" and are available at the
retailers listed. A complete uniform
is relatively expensive, at around
$75, it represents a major
investment, but it is needed. A boy
feels a part of the group, and the
troop requires uniforms for
meetings, traveling to and from
camping trips, and some other
functions. Consider buying it a
little big to get maximum wear out
of it, and check with parents of
older Scout to see
if they have old, outgrown uniforms
parts for sale. The Troop maintains
a "Uniform Exchange". Check with the
Scoutmaster for more info. The only
place to obtain an Official Boy
Scout Uniform is the Scout Shop at
the Scout Service Center or online
at http://www.scoutstuff.org/ (but
you can't try it on if you buy it
online - and believe me, you want to
have him try it on before you buy!).
8) Mark all of your son's gear!!!
Use indelible ink on all clothes
including underwear, socks and
T-shirts. Engrave all metal items.
It makes the stuff easier to keep up
with ("That's my fork! No, it's
not!"), and allows easy tracing of
the owner after it is left behind on
camping trips. Every effort is made
to return found gear, but a boy that
persists in leaving things behind
will have his lost stuff presented
at a Court of Honor. If you think
something is lost, call the trip
leader to see if he has it before
you panic. Many times, lost items
wind up in the troop shed. A search
there could be very rewarding!
9) Our troop outings include
caving, rappelling, shooting and
many aquatic activities. The
equipment needed for these types of
activities is highly specialized,
and will be provided unless
specifically noted otherwise.
Please, please, please do not buy
your son rappelling, caving,
shooting or other activity-specific
equipment without consulting with
the people that actually run these
activities. Used without proper
training, these types of equipment,
including but not limited to,
carabiners, webbing, seat harnesses,
helmets, ropes, guns, etc., are
DANGEROUS and should not be given to
boys without extensive training.
10) As you read the following
paragraphs, keep in mind the things
listed above. It is easy to spend
huge amounts on camping equipment,
or to go a little more carefully and
still have good, serviceable gear
that will serve for many years (my
backpack was purchased in 1975 for
$89 and is still in every-trip use).
Buying equipment is a very
personalized thing; if you've been
camping awhile and your son is used
to and knows how to use the family
equipment, then he may not need to
purchase all of the items that
follow. Not everything needs to be
bought at once, remember number one
above.
11) The asterisks (*) after an
item name can be used as a guideline
as to how important a piece of
equipment is to "successful"
camping. The more stars, the more
important the item is.
Specific Item
Considerations
BACKPACK
External
frame-type, with a padded,
wrap-around hipbelt. Do not purchase
an internal frame pack, they are
designed for climbers and skiers
(and are very hot in the summer). A
pack needs to fit properly. The
hipbelt should allow the weight of
the pack to be carried on the hips,
not the shoulders, so the hipbelt
should not be too large. Also, look
for a buckle on the belt that will
not "pull-out". FastexTM buckles are
the best, but be sure one side is
sewn on, and the other has a second
"pull-out" protector. Adjustable
size frames are also available.
The Camp TrailsTM "Adjustable II" is
a good choice (about $60-70 from
Campmor), but there are many others
that are very good quality for less
money. Some of the "Official" BSA
packs are made by Camp Trails and
are very nice. Your son will use his
pack a lot, try not to skimp here.
If you can find a used pack without
a hipbelt, belts are available
separately to retrofit most packs
for about $20. Take the pack with
you when you buy the belt, all frame
widths are not the same. Also
consider purchasing a small spare
parts kit with a few extra pins and
split rings, the cost: maybe $3.
SLEEPING BAG
There
really is only one way to go on
sleeping bag materials: Synthetic
(Primaloft™, Hollofil II™,
Quallofil™, or Polarguard™) fill,
with a nylon shell and liner.
Synthetics are necessary to keep
warm if they get wet (and sleeping
bags do that regularly). Nylon bags
are also tough, and while somewhat
heavier than down, they have
excellent weight to warmth ratios
(don't buy a down bag, get it wet,
it's useless, dry it wrong, it's
ruined; they're also 3 to 7 times
more expensive than synthetic).
Sleeping bags come with a
temperature "rating", a somewhat
arbitrary number that can be used to
compare one bag to another as far as
warmth goes, but doesn't mean much
in real life. If your son is warm in
a 60o bedroom with a sheet on him,
he'll be more comfortable in a bag
with a higher temperature rating
than a boy who sleeps with 5
blankets in the summer when the air
conditioning is off. You can make a
sleeping bag warmer by wrapping up
in a sheet or blanket, but you can't
make them cooler, so a Mount
Everest-class bag (rated below zero)
is not recommended, despite what
some crazy Scoutmasters buy (one of
mine is rated at -35o). A bag rated
around 20o or so will be plenty
adequate, don't go much warmer
because the bag will be warm in the
summer as it is (sleeping on the bag
and putting a sheet over you is a
good way to sleep in the summer). If
the bag doesn't come with a stuff
sack, buy one to go with it. Rolled
bags come unrolled quite easily on
the trail. Plan on placing a garbage
bag inside the stuff sack before
stuffing the bag in. So-called
"waterproof" stuff sacks seldom are.
If the bag is larger than 12 or 14
inches in diameter when stuffed,
consider a compression stuff sack to
cut the bulk of the bag. Accessory,
or sleeping bag straps can be
purchased to attach the bag to the
bottom of the pack frame. They are
convenient, but tying the bag on
securely works well, too. Bungie
cords tend not to hold too well, the
constant motion bounces things out
from under them. A good bag will run
between $35 - $125.
Please don't beat up on me. I
bought a down bag for the first time
in the spring of 2002. So far, so
good. One of the advantages is
extemely light weight (right at 3
pounds for my zero degree bag). And
with the newer, more watertight tent
fabrics (I have a Sierra Designs
Expedition Dome), I expect to stay
drier than in older, non-sealed
tents. Of course, it cost $190, much
more than an equivalent synthetic
bag in terms of warmth. We'll see
what happens!
CANTEEN
A Nalgene™ bottle is an excellent
choice, and fits into a pack pocket.
Another good choice is one that
clips onto the belt. The best would
be one that does both. A one and
one-half quart seamless aluminum
canteen works well but is not as
durable. A plastic soda bottle works
well, as do surplus military
canteens. About $5-15.
MESS KITS
Official
BSA and surplus military messkits
are not too hot. They have a shallow
plate, no bowl, nor any pots or
pans. A better alternative would be
a "microwave" or aluminum plate, a
one to one and one half quart pot
with lid for heating
water and cooking (the advantage to
this size is that a stove and
utensils will often fit inside it;
it also holds enough water for
individual cleanup), and a small fry
pan. You can assemble these out of
kitchen extras or buy good ready
made messkits for $10-35. A plastic
"hot" cup is convenient for
measuring, pouring, and drinking. It
should be unbreakable. Metal cups
burn lips and fingers, and cause
food and drinks to cool faster.
Before buying a messkit, see
"STOVES", below.
UTENSILS
"Vitt-l
Kits": A knife, fork and spoon that
fit together. Or, old flatware from
home. $3-6 covers it (but it's free
is you scrounge through the
silverware drawer).
RAIN GEAR
A coated nylon poncho, long enough
to cover a boy and his pack are
available for $10-25. A less
expensive vinyl one will do, but
will tear and wear out much more
quickly. Watch out for
"super-fabrics" such as Gore-Tex™,
or Ultrex™. They are certainly great
items to own, but they are
expensive, and hard to take care of.
When a boy is older, they may be
more suitable.
FLASHLIGHT
Somewhat
water-resistant, compact,
lightweight. A 5 "D" cell light is
plenty bright, but requires an ox to
carry it. They are o.k. for car
camping and summer camp. All that
many people use is a 2 "AA" cell
Mini-Mag™ or equivalent. These cost
$14 or more, but are frequently on
sale for less. Headlights, such as
those made by Petzl™, Princeton
Tek™, REI™, UKELite™, and others
leave the hands free at night.
KNIFE
SHEATH
KNIVES ARE NOT ALLOWED!
Some older boys and leaders carry
them in their pack as cooking
utensils, but Scouts are not
permitted to have them. A small
Swiss army style knife (Victorinox™
or Wenger™) is totally adequate for
scouting purposes. A small folding
knife such as the "Scout-Lite" by
Buck™ is also very nice. Invest a
few dollars in good sharpening stone
soon after he gets the knife. A dull
knife is dangerous. In any case, ask
to see his Tote-N-Chip card before
he gets a knife. This is the Scout's
certification that he has passed a
simple course in knife and ax
handling. The troop teaches it any
time it's needed.
HATCHET, AX, BOWSAW
Generally
not something each boy needs to buy.
A bowsaw is the most useful of the
three, an ax only useful for
splitting what the bowsaw cuts, and
a hatchet, well, for driving in tent
pegs, only a hammer will beat it.
COMPASS
Needed
for advancement and some hiking
trips, a compass is a common Scout
tool. The easiest to use are the
official Scout compasses. They have
clear plastic, rectangular bases,
with a direction of travel arrow.
The compass sits at one end of the
base. Some unofficial models add
scales or rulers, small magnifying
glasses, sighting glasses or
mirrors, and other niceties to the
base. A basic Scout compass is
around $10. More elaborate versions
cost more. Avoid military style
lensatic compasses, or more complex
transit compasses, they are either
not suitable, or too hard to use.
Suunto™, and Silva™ are two common
brand names.
TENT
You
can wait a LOOONNNGGG time before
buying a tent, since the troop
provides tentage for new Scouts that
they can continue to use throughout
their Scouting career. Tents are a
MAJOR investment. Lightweight (less
than 6-7 pounds for a two-man
mountain tent) such as pup, dome, or
mountain styles are relatively
inexpensive and easy to set up.
Nylon tents require a rain fly to
keep them dry in the rain, try to
spend a little more initially and
get a tent with a matching fly. No
matter what anyone tells you, buy 1
or 2 tubes of seam sealer (K-Kote™)
and treat every seam on the tent
before it goes out of the house!
Sewing puts tiny holes in the tent
material that will let in water. The
newest tents state that all seams
are "factory taped" or "factory
sealed". Double check to be sure the
taping got down into the corners,
and ALL seams are sealed, not just
those in the floor.
A ground cloth of either 4 or 6 mil
polyethylene sheeting is also good
to have. It should be the same shape
as the bottom of the tent, and one
to two inches larger on each side.
In dry weather, it goes between the
tent and the ground to prevent
condensation from soaking the bottom
of the tent (the extra around the
edges is turned under). In wet
weather, it can go inside the tent
on the floor and gear and people go
on top of it. The extra is pushed up
the sides to help keep water off of
everything. A lot of money can be
spent on a tent, $75-250 is not
unusual, but a boy should tent with
someone else anyway, to cut weight
each has to carry (half a tent is
less than a whole), and to reduce
the amount of gear we carry overall.
Besides, it's more fun to tent with
a friend than alone. Also, Scout
rules state that adults sleep with
other adults and the Scouts tent
together, so if you buy a tent for
one, the other might not get to use
it much!
FOOTWEAR
This
troop has a lot of "carry it in"
camping trips, ranging from a short
hike from the car to a site a
hundred yards in the woods, to full
blown 7 to 10 mile days on
backpacking trips. The footwear a
boy brings along can make or break a
camping trip. Cold, wet, sore feet
will dampen enthusiasm faster than
almost anything. A growing boy does
not need a $130 pair of
mountaineering boots, but his feet
do need good sturdy protection. Fit
is very important. Yes, you can buy
them a little bit large, but be sure
the difference can be made up with
extra socks until he grows into
them. A rubbing boot gives only one
thing reliably: BLISTERS! Take the
socks he will be wearing under the
boots with you when you buy them.
(See the paragraph on socks below).
Lightweight, nylon and suede Hi-Tec™
boots are very good, and not on the
high end of the price scale.
High-top leather basketball shoes or
decent quality running shoes are
good until a boy hits the 135 pound
weight class. The heavier he gets,
the more he'll be carrying,
therefore heavier-duty footwear will
be needed. Leather workboots, or
mid-weight hiking boots are good at
this stage. By this time, however, a
boy will probably know what he
needs, shoes or boots.
All-suede "hiking" boots styled
after the heavy, full grain leather
mountain hiking boots are usually
more style than function. They are
heavy and lack even the most basic
construction techniques used in real
boots. Both Hi-Tec™ and Nike™ make
nice hiking boots for a reasonable
sum of money, $35-65 (consider that
the next time he wants Air-Jordans).
The top of the line rings in at over
$150! Although new construction
techniques have allowed Gore-Tex™ to
be implemented into boots, thus
rendering them NEARLY waterproof, it
is still nigh onto impossible to
completely weatherproof a boot. So,
for comfort reasons, two pairs of
socks should be worn. This applies
whether he is in shoes of some sort
or boots. The inner sock can be
nylon, polypropylene, Thermax™, or
silk. Cotton tube socks are o.k.
only in mild, dry weather because
once they get wet, they stay wet,
and do a fine job of conducting heat
away from the toes. The outer socks
should be wool or polypropoline/wool
blends. Wool insulates when wet, and
provides padding and a surface for
the inner sock and foot to rub
against, helping to avoid blisters.
Official Scout socks seem to work
all right for outers in mild
weather. A boy will need one extra
pair of socks (1 or 2 pair of outer,
2 or 3 pair of inner) for a two to
three day trip. This assumes
reasonably good weather. If there is
a chance of cold or wet weather,
send more socks. Better he have too
many, than get one or two sets wet
hiking, and not have anything dry to
change into at camp.
STOVES
Charcoal
stoves are recommended for young,
new Scouts. They can be made from 3
pound coffee cans. The only time
they can't be used is in an area
that prohibits fires. The troop can
show a boy how to make one. In areas
where fires are prohibited, a boy
can use a Sterno™ or Heat-Tab™
stove. These are inexpensive, easy
to use, and good for a variety of
cooking. They are not adequate in
extreme conditions (much below
freezing, or in high winds or heavy
rains). They don't generate enough
heat to overcome these problems.
Boys should use these simple stoves
and watch and learn from older boys
before purchasing a gas or liquid
fuel stove. Butane (good except in
below freezing temps) are fairly
safe and relatively easy to use.
Many butane or propane stoves are
flimsy however, so to get a good
one, pay a little more (a really
good one will cost almost as much as
a liquid fuel model). A liquid fuel
stove is the cadillac. If you decide
to buy one, watch for safety
features (such as detached fuel
tanks like the MSR Whisperlite™),
ease of use (such as the Optimus
8R), and ability to be used at high
altitudes, and in cold temperatures.
The Whisperlite is highly
recommended (about $45-55). The
Svea™ 123R is also a good choice.
It's a good idea (for the 123R it's
necessary) to purchase a cookkit to
go with the stove (another $35-45)
because this adds an uncounted
amount of safety and convenience to
the stove's use. It allows the stove
to be nested for carrying, and one
kit will generally feed two to three
people which is the usual size of
cooking groups on backpacking trips.
BSA's recommended stove, the
Coleman™ Peak 1, is not the best
choice. It is o.k., but has some
safety limitations (as far as I am
concerned, any stove that regularly
throws up a 2 foot flame is a safety
concern). A boy must be absolutely
sure of his stove's operating
instructions and safety rules before
using it. Please make sure he
practices with it under an adult's
supervision at home until he is
proficient to safely operate the
stove in all kinds of conditions,
including, but not limited to: cold
weather, wind, rain, and uneven
terrain. Use it with the cookkit
he'll be using in the woods to cook
food. Some boys have chosen not to
eat or to eat cold food because they
were unsure of how to use them when
they went camping. 2 or 3 leaders
cannot help 20 boys light 20
different stoves and fix their own
meals, too. We cannot be experts on
all types of stoves, although the
ones mentioned above are used
regularly by various members of the
troop. We'll certainly help if
they're having too much difficulty
or trying to blow themselves up, but
nothing prevents problems better
than thorough lessons on stove use
at home. If you're unsure or don't
feel confident to help him, ask one
of the leaders, we'll make time to
help him learn before he gets into
trouble. The troop also requires a
Scout to be "certified" on any stove
he uses by demonstrating his ability
to set it up, light it, cook on it,
refuel it safely, and put it away.
He must also show that he knows what
to do in an emergency involving the
stove he is using. A Scout must have
this certification before he is
allowed to use any stoves on trips.
External
frame-type, with a padded,
wrap-around hipbelt. Do not purchase
an internal frame pack, they are
designed for climbers and skiers
(and are very hot in the summer). A
pack needs to fit properly. The
hipbelt should allow the weight of
the pack to be carried on the hips,
not the shoulders, so the hipbelt
should not be too large. Also, look
for a buckle on the belt that will
not "pull-out". FastexTM buckles are
the best, but be sure one side is
sewn on, and the other has a second
"pull-out" protector. Adjustable
size frames are also available. 
There
really is only one way to go on
sleeping bag materials: Synthetic
(Primaloft™, Hollofil II™,
Quallofil™, or Polarguard™) fill,
with a nylon shell and liner.
Synthetics are necessary to keep
warm if they get wet (and sleeping
bags do that regularly). Nylon bags
are also tough, and while somewhat
A Nalgene™ bottle is an excellent
choice, and fits into a pack pocket.
Another good choice is one that
clips onto the belt. The best would
be one that does both. A one and
one-half quart seamless aluminum
canteen works well but is not as
durable. A plastic soda bottle works
well, as do surplus military
canteens. About $5-15. 
Official
BSA and surplus military messkits
are not too hot. They have a shallow
plate, no bowl, nor any pots or
pans. A better alternative would be
a "microwave" or aluminum plate, a
one to one and one half quart pot
with lid for heating 
"Vitt-l
Kits": A knife, fork and spoon that
fit together. Or, old flatware from
home. $3-6 covers it (but it's free
is you scrounge through the
silverware drawer). 
Somewhat
water-resistant, compact,
lightweight. A 5 "D" cell light is
plenty bright, but requires an ox to
carry it. They are o.k. for car
camping and summer camp. All that
many people use is a 2 "AA" cell
Mini-Mag™ or equivalent. These cost
$14 or more, but are frequently on
sale for less. Headlights, such as
those made by Petzl™, Princeton
Tek™, REI™, UKELite™, and others
leave the hands free at night. 
SHEATH
KNIVES ARE NOT ALLOWED!
Some older boys and leaders carry
them in their pack as cooking
utensils, but Scouts are not
permitted to have them. A small
Swiss army style knife (Victorinox™
or Wenger™) is totally adequate for
scouting purposes. A small folding
knife such as the "Scout-Lite" by
Buck™ is also very nice. Invest a
few dollars in good sharpening stone
soon after he gets the knife. A dull
knife is dangerous. In any case, ask
to see his Tote-N-Chip card before
he gets a knife. This is the Scout's
certification that he has passed a
simple course in knife and ax
handling. The troop teaches it any
time it's needed.
Generally
not something each boy needs to buy.
A bowsaw is the most useful of the
three, an ax only useful for
splitting what the bowsaw cuts, and
a hatchet, well, for driving in tent
pegs, only a hammer will beat it.
Needed
for advancement and some hiking
trips, a compass is a common Scout
tool. The easiest to use are the
official Scout compasses. They have
clear plastic, rectangular bases,
with a direction of travel arrow.
The compass sits at one end of the
base. Some unofficial models add
scales or rulers, small magnifying
glasses, sighting glasses or
mirrors, and other niceties to the
base. A basic Scout compass is
around $10. More elaborate versions
cost more. Avoid military style
lensatic compasses, or more complex
transit compasses, they are either
not suitable, or too hard to use.
Suunto™, and Silva™ are two common
brand names.
You
can wait a LOOONNNGGG time before
buying a tent, since the troop
provides tentage for new Scouts that
they can continue to use throughout
their Scouting career. Tents are a
MAJOR investment. Lightweight (less
than 6-7 pounds for a two-man
mountain tent) such as pup, dome, or
mountain styles are relatively
inexpensive and easy to set up.
Nylon tents require a rain fly to
keep them dry in the rain, try to
spend a little more initially and
get a tent with a matching fly. No
matter what anyone tells you, buy 1
or 2 tubes of seam sealer (K-Kote™)
and treat every seam on the tent
before it goes out of the house!
Sewing puts tiny holes in the tent
material that will let in water. The
newest tents state that all seams
are "factory taped" or "factory
sealed". Double check to be sure the
taping got down into the corners,
and ALL seams are sealed, not just
those in the floor. 
This
troop has a lot of "carry it in"
camping trips, ranging from a short
hike from the car to a site a
hundred yards in the woods, to full
blown 7 to 10 mile days on
backpacking trips. The footwear a
boy brings along can make or break a
camping trip. Cold, wet, sore feet
will dampen enthusiasm faster than
almost anything. A growing boy does
not need a $130 pair of
mountaineering boots, but his feet
do need good sturdy protection. Fit
is very important. Yes, you can buy
them a little bit large, but be sure
the difference can be made up with
extra socks until he grows into
them. A rubbing boot gives only one
thing reliably: BLISTERS! Take the
socks he will be wearing under the
boots with you when you buy them.
(See the paragraph on socks below).
Charcoal
stoves are recommended for young,
new Scouts. They can be made from 3
pound coffee cans. The only time
they can't be used is in an area
that prohibits fires. The troop can
show a boy how to make one. In areas
where fires are prohibited, a boy
can use a Sterno™ or Heat-Tab™
stove. These are inexpensive, easy
to use, and good for a variety of
cooking. They are not adequate in
extreme conditions (much below
freezing, or in high winds or heavy
rains). They don't generate enough
heat to overcome these problems.
Boys should use these simple stoves
and watch and learn from older boys
before purchasing a gas or liquid
fuel stove. Butane (good except in
below freezing temps) are fairly
safe and relatively easy to use.
Many butane or propane stoves are
flimsy however, so to get a good
one, pay a little more (a really
good one will cost almost as much as
a liquid fuel model). A liquid fuel
stove is the cadillac. If you decide
to buy one, watch for safety
features (such as detached fuel
tanks like the MSR Whisperlite™),
ease of use (such as the Optimus
8R), and ability to be used at high
altitudes, and in cold temperatures.
The Whisperlite is highly
recommended (about $45-55). The
Svea™ 123R is also a good choice.
It's a good idea (for the 123R it's
necessary) to purchase a cookkit to
go with the stove (another $35-45)
because this adds an uncounted
amount of safety and convenience to
the stove's use. It allows the stove
to be nested for carrying, and one
kit will generally feed two to three
people which is the usual size of
cooking groups on backpacking trips.
BSA's recommended stove, the
Coleman™ Peak 1, is not the best
choice. It is o.k., but has some
safety limitations (as far as I am
concerned, any stove that regularly
throws up a 2 foot flame is a safety
concern). A boy must be absolutely
sure of his stove's operating
instructions and safety rules before
using it. Please make sure he
practices with it under an adult's
supervision at home until he is
proficient to safely operate the
stove in all kinds of conditions,
including, but not limited to: cold
weather, wind, rain, and uneven
terrain. Use it with the cookkit
he'll be using in the woods to cook
food. Some boys have chosen not to
eat or to eat cold food because they
were unsure of how to use them when
they went camping. 2 or 3 leaders
cannot help 20 boys light 20
different stoves and fix their own
meals, too. We cannot be experts on
all types of stoves, although the
ones mentioned above are used
regularly by various members of the
troop. We'll certainly help if
they're having too much difficulty
or trying to blow themselves up, but
nothing prevents problems better
than thorough lessons on stove use
at home. If you're unsure or don't
feel confident to help him, ask one
of the leaders, we'll make time to
help him learn before he gets into
trouble. The troop also requires a
Scout to be "certified" on any stove
he uses by demonstrating his ability
to set it up, light it, cook on it,
refuel it safely, and put it away.
He must also show that he knows what
to do in an emergency involving the
stove he is using. A Scout must have
this certification before he is
allowed to use any stoves on trips.